In the park by the Notre-Damme we ate a sandwich and met this strange american bum who said he'd come to Paris 20 years ago but that everything had changed. And, he said, "The Parisians are creeps. Like look at this guy- been staring at me for 10 minutes. WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING AT?" he shouted to a young professional Parisian guy sitting across the park who, strangely enough, really was staring intently at him. Why then, we wondered, are you still here?